Building a Workbench for your Machine
If like me, you have the 1000mm machine with the sideboard, then your "machine size" (and minimum workbench area) is going to be 1000x1250mm; there are many designs for a workbench out there and you can spend hours on YouTube or Facebook looking at many splendid designs, so let's look at a few basics to consider...
You will need a practical working height of around 800mm for standing, which will give you room underneath for a couple of good size shelves, some drawers, material storage, etc., It's worth making the height a little lower than what you feel as a comfortable working height, so that there's room to reach over and around the machine.
The layout of my shop determined how I placed my machine; for understanding (until I get a photo added) as I stand at my machine the controller is on the left side and the gantry is perpendicular to the wall. Having the machine oriented this way, has a definite advantage of being able to 'hang' longer material out of the back of the machine. I buy a lot of sheet goods and get my local DIY store to rip an 8x4 sheet in two, giving me two 8x2 sheets. If your orientation means that the machine is in a better layout with the gantry running parallel to a wall, then I would highly recommend adding locking castors so that you can move it, which is also handy for cleaning up.
Make sure the workbench surface is nice and solid, as any "sagging" will eventually transfer to your machine and cause issues with the calibration. It's worth noting that the surface does not need to be super-accurately-level.
My workbench is a modest item, built with simple 2x4, an 18mm OSB sheet for a shelf and the top is 2x 18mm OSB sheets (well supported underneath).
Some overhead lighting is a must, but you'll also find the benefit of having a good light source aimed at the point where the bit contacts the material; for alignment and probing.
You will need a practical working height of around 800mm for standing, which will give you room underneath for a couple of good size shelves, some drawers, material storage, etc., It's worth making the height a little lower than what you feel as a comfortable working height, so that there's room to reach over and around the machine.
The layout of my shop determined how I placed my machine; for understanding (until I get a photo added) as I stand at my machine the controller is on the left side and the gantry is perpendicular to the wall. Having the machine oriented this way, has a definite advantage of being able to 'hang' longer material out of the back of the machine. I buy a lot of sheet goods and get my local DIY store to rip an 8x4 sheet in two, giving me two 8x2 sheets. If your orientation means that the machine is in a better layout with the gantry running parallel to a wall, then I would highly recommend adding locking castors so that you can move it, which is also handy for cleaning up.
Make sure the workbench surface is nice and solid, as any "sagging" will eventually transfer to your machine and cause issues with the calibration. It's worth noting that the surface does not need to be super-accurately-level.
My workbench is a modest item, built with simple 2x4, an 18mm OSB sheet for a shelf and the top is 2x 18mm OSB sheets (well supported underneath).
Some overhead lighting is a must, but you'll also find the benefit of having a good light source aimed at the point where the bit contacts the material; for alignment and probing.
